Tusheti National Park

Tusheti National Park: Where Wild Mountains Meet Ancient Culture

Welcome to Tusheti National Park, a breathtakingly beautiful and remote region high in the Greater Caucasus mountains of northeastern Georgia. Tusheti is not just a national park; it’s a unique world where stunning mountain landscapes blend with ancient traditions and remarkably preserved stone villages. Imagine dramatic peaks, deep river valleys, vast alpine meadows dotted with flowers, and clusters of centuries-old stone towers – this is the magic of Tusheti.

Established as a protected area in 2003 (including the National Park, a Strict Reserve, and a Protected Landscape), the main goal is to conserve Tusheti’s unique nature and its rich cultural heritage together. This includes protecting its diverse wildlife, like the rare East Caucasian Tur and Bezoar Goat that cling to the rocky slopes, large birds of prey soaring overhead, and the beautiful pine forests and alpine flowers. Equally important is supporting the traditional way of life of the Tushetian people, known for their unique architecture (especially the iconic stone defense towers called koshkebi), their history as skilled sheep farmers, and their distinct customs and festivals.

Getting to Tusheti is an adventure in itself and requires careful planning. The region is isolated for most of the year due to heavy snow. The only road access is via the Abano Pass, one of the highest drivable mountain passes in Europe (around 2,900 meters). This challenging, unpaved road is only open from roughly late May or June until mid-October. It is dangerous and requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle and a very experienced driver. There is no regular public transport, so visitors must hire special 4WD taxis or join organized tours. This difficult access has helped keep Tusheti wonderfully preserved but means visits are only possible for a few months each year.

Once in Tusheti (usually arriving in the main village, Omalo), visitors can explore this amazing landscape primarily through hiking and horseback riding. A network of marked trails connects picturesque villages like Dartlo, Shenako, and Diklo, each with its unique charm and stone towers. Hiking here offers incredible views at every turn, taking you through forests, across meadows, and over mountain passes. Staying in local family-run guesthouses is the best way to experience Tushetian hospitality and traditional food.

Because of its unique mix of nature and culture, Tusheti is on the Tentative List for UNESCO World Heritage status. A visit here is a journey back in time, offering profound experiences for adventurous travelers who respect its wildness and traditions. Remember, preparation, respect for nature and local customs, and awareness of the remote mountain conditions are essential for a safe and rewarding trip.

1. Basic Identification

• Official Name: Tusheti National Park (თუშეთის ეროვნული პარკი). It is part of the wider Tusheti Protected Areas system, which also includes Tusheti State Reserve and Tusheti Protected Landscape.
• Type of Protected Area: National Park (IUCN Category II). Manages the area for conservation, sustainable tourism, and support of traditional cultural practices.
• Date Established: 2003 (Tusheti Protected Areas).
• Governing Body: Agency of Protected Areas (APA) of Georgia.

2. Location & Accessibility

• Geographic Location: Georgia, Kakheti Region (administered under Akhmeta Municipality, historically the Tusheti region). Located in the high mountains of the Greater Caucasus, bordering Dagestan and Chechnya (Russian Federation).
• Map/Coordinates: A remote, large mountain area. Omalo village is roughly at 42∘22′ N, 45∘38′ E. Detailed maps are crucial for navigation and available from the APA or visitor centers.
• Nearest Cities/Towns: Access begins from the villages of Kvemo Alvani and Pshaveli in the Kakheti lowlands. Omalo is the main administrative center within Tusheti. Telavi is the nearest major city in Kakheti.
• How to Get There: Extremely limited and seasonal access:
  • Road: The only way in is via the Abano Pass (~2900m) from Pshaveli/Kvemo Alvani. This road is unpaved, very dangerous, requires 4WD high-clearance vehicles and experienced local drivers. It is open only from approximately late May/June to mid-October (dates vary yearly based on snow). The journey takes 5-7+ hours. Regular cars cannot make this trip.
  • Transport: No public buses. Visitors must hire 4WD vehicles with drivers (usually in Kvemo Alvani) or join pre-arranged tours.
  • Other: Occasional helicopter flights might be available but are not regular public transport.
  • Nearest Airport: Tbilisi International Airport (TBS).

3. Size & Physical Description

• Area: Tusheti National Park covers 83,007 hectares (830 km²). The total area of Tusheti Protected Areas is 113,660 ha.
• Topography: High-mountain landscape with steep slopes, deep gorges carved by the Pirikiti Alazani and Tusheti (Gomtsari) Alazani rivers, high mountain passes, vast alpine meadows, and rocky summits. Altitude ranges from around 900 meters to over 4,500 meters.
• Geology & Key Features: Formed by the geology of the Greater Caucasus range (mainly shale, sandstone). Glacial landforms are present. Key features include the dramatic mountain scenery, river valleys, alpine ecosystems, and the iconic medieval stone towers in the villages.
• Hydrology: Characterized by the two main rivers (Pirikiti Alazani and Tusheti/Gomtsari Alazani) and their numerous tributaries. High mountain springs and streams are abundant. Small alpine lakes exist. Glaciers are found on the highest peaks.
• Climate: Harsh high-mountain climate. Winters are long, extremely cold, and very snowy, making the region inaccessible (October/November to May/June). Summers are short and cool, with potential for rain, fog, strong winds, and even occasional summer snow at high altitudes. Weather is highly unpredictable.

4. Purpose & Significance

• Reason for Designation: To protect the unique high-mountain ecosystems and biodiversity of Tusheti, preserve the spectacular landscapes, and conserve the region’s unique traditional culture and architecture in harmony with nature. To promote sustainable ecotourism and support local communities.
• Key Values: An outstanding combination of dramatic natural beauty and well-preserved, living traditional culture. High biodiversity with rare and endemic species (especially wild ungulates and raptors). Unique architecture (stone towers). Important for scientific research, education, and sustainable tourism.
• International Recognition:
  • UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List (as a Mixed Cultural and Natural Site).
  • Important Bird Area (IBA).
  • Emerald Network Site.

5. Biodiversity (Flora & Fauna)

• Ecosystems/Habitats: Pine forests on lower slopes, birch forests, subalpine rhododendron thickets, extensive subalpine and alpine meadows, scree slopes, cliffs, river valleys.
• Key Plant Species: Scots Pine (Pinus sosnowskyi), Birch species. Subalpine zone dominated by Caucasian Rhododendron. Alpine meadows boast diverse wildflowers like gentians, primulas, poppies, bellflowers. Many plants are endemic to the Caucasus.
• Key Animal Species:
  • Mammals: Flagship species are East Caucasian Tur (Dagestan Tur) and Bezoar Goat (Wild Goat). Also Chamois, Brown Bear, Wolf, Eurasian Lynx, Red Fox, Pine Marten, Stoat. Roe Deer may be present at lower edges. Claims of Caucasian Leopard persist but lack recent confirmation.
  • Birds: Excellent area for raptors like Bearded Vulture (Lammergeier), Griffon Vulture, Golden Eagle. High altitude specialists include Caucasian Snowcock and Caucasian Black Grouse. Also Great Rosefinch, Güldenstädt’s Redstart.
• Endangered/Rare Species: East Caucasian Tur (Near Threatened), Bezoar Goat (Vulnerable). Brown Bear, Lynx, Bearded Vulture, Golden Eagle are nationally protected or of conservation concern. Caucasian Leopard (if extant) is Critically Endangered.

6. Visitor Information

• Visitor Center(s):
  • Main visitor center is in Upper Omalo (operational during the open season, approx. June-October).
  • An information center is also located in Kvemo Alvani (village at the start of the road).
  • Services: Provide maps, information on trails and guesthouses, registration, guidance on permits, information on guides/horses, exhibits on Tusheti’s nature and culture. Contact via APA website.
• Opening Hours & Seasons: The park is only accessible via the Abano Pass road from approximately late May/June to mid-October. Visitor centers operate during this season. Trails are usable only during this snow-free period.
• Entrance Fees & Permits: Entry to the National Park area is generally free. Registration at a visitor center is strongly advised/required. Fees apply for using designated campsites or specific services. Permits from the Border Police are required for hiking in zones close to the Russian border (e.g., towards Girevi, Atsunta Pass). Check with APA/visitor center for details.
• Trails & Routes: Extensive network of marked hiking and horse-riding trails connecting villages and valleys. Difficulty ranges from moderate to very difficult due to steep terrain and altitude.
  • Popular routes include multi-day treks like Omalo-Dartlo-Parsma-Girevi, Omalo-Shenako-Diklo, Omalo loop visiting Oreti Lake.
  • Horseback riding is a traditional and practical way to explore; horses and guides can be hired locally (arrange via visitor center or guesthouses).
• Activities: Hiking/trekking and horseback riding are the main activities. Cultural tourism (exploring villages and towers), landscape/nature photography, birdwatching, camping (designated spots).
• Accommodation:
  • Inside the park: Primarily family-run guesthouses in villages like Omalo, Dartlo, Shenako, Diklo, Jvarboseli, etc. Offer basic but authentic lodging and meals. Booking well in advance is essential, especially July-August. Basic designated campsites are also available. There are no official park-run shelters like in Borjomi-Kharagauli.
  • Nearby: Not applicable due to isolated location. Accommodation needed in Telavi/Kvemo Alvani before or after the trip over the pass.
• Facilities: Visitor centers (seasonal), marked trails, guesthouses (private), campsites (basic). Very limited shops (Omalo, Dartlo) for basic necessities. Electricity is often supplied by generators or solar panels and may not be constant. Mobile phone coverage is extremely limited, mainly available only in Omalo. Toilets primarily at guesthouses/visitor center. Water from springs/streams is plentiful but treatment (filtering/boiling) is recommended.
• Safety Advice:
  • Abano Pass: Only travel with reliable 4WD vehicles and experienced local drivers. Road is extremely hazardous.
  • Weather: Be prepared for severe and rapidly changing mountain weather (cold, rain, wind, fog, possible snow even in summer). Pack warm layers, full waterproofs.
  • Altitude: Acclimatize gradually if possible. Be aware of altitude sickness symptoms.
  • Terrain: Trails are steep, rocky, and can be exposed. River crossings can be dangerous, especially after rain – check conditions and use bridges if available.
  • Remoteness & Supplies: Carry sufficient food, a comprehensive first-aid kit, and any personal medication. Medical facilities are extremely basic or non-existent. Rescue is difficult and slow. Inform visitor center/guesthouse of your detailed plans.
  • Navigation: Essential to have map, compass, and GPS. Trails are marked but fog can reduce visibility to zero.
  • Wildlife & Dogs: Be aware of bears. Make noise while hiking. Store food securely. Be cautious around shepherd dogs protecting flocks – they can be aggressive (consult locals/guides on how to approach).
  • Guides: Hiring local guides is highly recommended for safety, navigation, cultural interaction, and supporting the local economy.
  • Border Permits: Ensure you have necessary permits if hiking near border areas.

7. Rules & Regulations

• Code of Conduct: Utmost respect for local traditions and culture is essential. Dress modestly in villages. Ask permission before photographing people. Be aware of local sacred sites (khatebi) and their rules (some forbid entry to women or have other restrictions). Practice Leave No Trace principles meticulously. Stay on marked trails. Pack out ALL rubbish.
• Prohibitions: Hunting is strictly forbidden. Respect private land (especially hay meadows). Do not disturb livestock or shepherd dogs unnecessarily. Lighting fires may be restricted; use designated spots only if permitted. Be mindful of local taboos (e.g., related to pork in some areas, or specific days/sites). Entering khatebi (shrines) without guidance/permission is forbidden. Drone use likely requires permission.
• Zoning: Tusheti Protected Areas include a Strict Reserve (no public access), National Park (conservation and regulated tourism), and Protected Landscape (allowing traditional land use). Visitors mainly use the National Park and Protected Landscape areas.

8. Conservation & Management

• Management Authority: Tusheti Protected Areas Administration (under APA). Staff operate seasonally from Omalo and year-round from Kvemo Alvani. Rangers patrol the vast territory.
• Conservation Efforts: Monitoring populations of key wildlife species (Tur, Bezoar Goat, large carnivores, raptors). Working with local communities on sustainable practices (grazing, tourism). Maintaining trails and basic visitor infrastructure. Anti-poaching and illegal resource use control. Supporting cultural heritage preservation initiatives.
• Threats/Challenges: Balancing increasing tourism with conservation and cultural preservation. Managing impact of grazing. Potential poaching or illegal resource extraction. Impacts of climate change on sensitive alpine ecosystems and glaciers. Difficulty of managing a large, remote area with limited resources and seasonal access. Maintaining the dangerous Abano Pass road. Ensuring tourism benefits flow effectively to the local community.

9. History & Culture

• Brief History: Tushetians are a distinct ethnographic group of Georgians with a long history in these mountains, known for their resilience and shepherding traditions. The region played a role in defending Georgia’s borders. Formal protection established in 2003.
• Cultural Significance: Exceptionally high cultural value. Unique vernacular architecture featuring stone houses and iconic defensive towers (koshkebi) in villages like Omalo, Dartlo, Shenako, Keselo. Deep-rooted traditions of transhumant sheep farming (seasonal migration). Unique local dialect, polyphonic singing, handicrafts (weaving, knitting). Survival of pre-Christian beliefs and sacred sites (khatebi) alongside Orthodox Christianity. Annual festivals like Atengenoba.

10. Unique Features/Interesting Facts

• Offers a rare combination of spectacular, wild high-mountain scenery and a living, well-preserved traditional mountain culture.
• Famous for its medieval stone defensive towers dotting the landscape.
• Access is restricted to a few summer months via the dangerous Abano Pass.
• Claims to have the highest continuously inhabited village in Europe (Bochorna).
• Strong traditions connected to sheep breeding, wool processing, and the production of Tushetian Guda cheese.
• Included on UNESCO’s Tentative List for World Heritage status as a mixed cultural and natural site.
• Excellent opportunities to see rare wildlife like East Caucasian Tur, Bezoar Goat, and Bearded Vulture.