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Norashen Holy Mother of God Church: A Disputed Jewel in Old Tbilisi

Overview

Located in the heart of Old Tbilisi, near Sioni Cathedral and the bustling streets of the historic Kala district, the Norashen Holy Mother of God Church stands as a significant, yet silent, monument. This 15th-century church, with its distinctive brick architecture and central dome, represents an important layer of Tbilisi’s multi-ethnic and multi-confessional past. Its name, “Norashen,” translates from Armenian as “newly built,” likely distinguishing it from older churches in the vicinity at the time of its construction. Historically functioning for centuries as a prominent Armenian Apostolic church, Norashen’s more recent history has been marked by a complex and unresolved dispute over its ownership and origins between the Armenian Apostolic Church and the Georgian Orthodox Church.

The construction of Norashen is generally dated to the mid-15th century, around 1467, traditionally linked to Armenian patrons like Sadat. Like many buildings in Old Tbilisi, it underwent significant reconstructions and embellishments in later centuries, particularly in the 17th and 18th centuries, reflecting the contributions of subsequent patrons from Tbilisi’s influential Armenian community. Architecturally, it exemplifies the central-domed cruciform plan common in Armenian church architecture of that period, executed primarily in brick, a material widely used in Tbilisi’s later medieval and early modern constructions.

Historically, the church interior was adorned with frescoes, including works attributed to the renowned 18th-century Armenian painter Hovnatan Hovnatanian. These artistic elements, alongside inscriptions within the church, have become focal points in the modern dispute over the building’s heritage. The church served its Armenian Apostolic congregation for centuries until its closure during the Soviet period, when religious activities were suppressed across the USSR.

Following the collapse of the Soviet Union and the revival of religious life in Georgia, Norashen became the subject of conflicting claims. The Armenian Apostolic Church sought to reclaim it as one of its historical centers in Tbilisi. Simultaneously, perspectives emerged from within the Georgian Orthodox Church asserting claims based on historical location, interpretations of architectural features or inscriptions, or theories about pre-existing Georgian foundations. This unresolved dispute has meant that, despite being a protected historical monument, Norashen has not been reopened for regular religious services by either community for decades. It remains closed and largely inaccessible, a poignant symbol of the complex interweaving of cultures in Tbilisi and the sensitive nature of heritage in the post-Soviet era.

Basic Identification

  • Full Name: Norashen Holy Mother of God Church (Armenian: Նորաշեն Սուրբ Աստվածածին եկեղեցի, Norashen Surb Astvatsatsin Yekeghetsi; Georgian: ნორაშენის ღვთისმშობლის ეკლესია, Norashenis Ghvtismshoblis Eklesia). Norashen means “newly built” in Armenian.
  • Type: Church (Historically Armenian Apostolic).
  • Location: Situated in Old Tbilisi (Kala district), Georgia, near Sioni Cathedral and Jvaris Mama Church, close to Kote Abkhazi Street (formerly Leselidze St.).

Historical Background

  • Founding: Generally dated to the mid-15th century, often cited as 1467, with attributions to Armenian patrons like Sadat.
  • Key Dates & Events:
  • 1467: Traditional founding date.
  • 17th-18th Centuries: Significant renovations and additions, including patronage by figures like Khoja Nazar. Dome reportedly rebuilt by Ustab Petros in 1795. Interior frescoed (including by Hovnatan Hovnatanian).
  • Soviet Period: Closed for religious services, like many other churches. Interior frescoes likely damaged or whitewashed.
  • Post-Soviet Period (since 1991): Became subject to ownership disputes between the Armenian Apostolic Church and the Georgian Orthodox Church. Remains closed for regular worship due to the unresolved dispute. Occasional tensions around the site reported.
  • Historical Figures: Sadat (traditional 15th C patron), Khoja Nazar (17th C patron), Ustab Petros (18th C builder), Hovnatan Hovnatanian (18th C painter). Prince Givi Amilakhvari’s father-in-law funded the 1795 dome reconstruction.
  • Legends: Specific legends are not the primary focus; the main narrative revolves around its construction, patronage, and the modern ownership dispute.

Significance and Purpose

  • Religious Importance: Historically a significant center for the Armenian Apostolic community in Tbilisi for several centuries. Currently inactive for regular religious services due to the ownership dispute.
  • Cultural Importance: An important architectural monument representing Tbilisi’s diverse historical fabric and Armenian heritage within the city. The ongoing dispute also highlights complex issues surrounding cultural heritage and inter-church relations in the post-Soviet Caucasus.
  • Architectural Importance: A notable example of 15th-18th century Armenian-influenced church architecture in Tbilisi, characterized by its brick construction and central-dome cruciform plan.
  • Current Status: An inactive church building, officially a protected historical monument. It is closed for regular religious services due to the unresolved ownership dispute between the Armenian Apostolic and Georgian Orthodox Churches. The interior is generally not accessible to the public.

Architectural and Artistic Description

  • Exterior: The church is a central-domed cruciform structure built predominantly of Georgian brick. It features a high, faceted drum supporting the dome. The facades incorporate decorative brickwork patterns and cross motifs. A large, arched porch or narthex (gavit) is attached to the western entrance, also built of brick. A separate, small bell tower structure stands nearby, likely from a later period.
  • Interior: The layout is cruciform with four projecting arms around the central space under the dome. Historically, the walls were covered with frescoes. Due to its closure and disuse during the Soviet era, and possibly later alterations or whitewashing, the original frescoes are largely lost or severely damaged.
  • Artworks: The primary artworks were the historical frescoes (notably by Hovnatan Hovnatanian), which are no longer visible in their original state. Architectural details in brickwork and stone carvings (possibly including inscriptions in Armenian and/or Georgian, which are part of the dispute) constitute the main remaining artistic features accessible from the exterior.
  • Complex: The site primarily consists of the main church building with its attached western porch and the nearby small bell tower. It occupies a constrained site within the dense urban fabric of Old Tbilisi.

Practical Visitor Information (Crucial for travelers)

  • !!! IMPORTANT NOTE ON ACCESS !!!: Norashen Church is currently closed for regular religious services and generally inaccessible to the public internally due to an ongoing ownership dispute between the Armenian Apostolic and Georgian Orthodox Churches. Viewing is typically restricted to the exterior.
  • Opening Hours: Not applicable for interior visits. The exterior can be viewed from the street/surrounding area at any time.
  • Admission Fees: Not applicable.
  • Accessibility: Located in Old Tbilisi on relatively flat ground near Kote Abkhazi Street. The exterior is easily visible from surrounding streets. Access typically involves walking on cobblestone streets common in Old Tbilisi.
  • Rules and Etiquette: As the church is closed for worship, standard visitor etiquette for respecting historical monuments applies to viewing the exterior (e.g., not causing damage, being respectful of the site’s sensitivity). If any specific event or temporary access were ever arranged, standard church dress codes would likely be expected.
  • Photography/Videography: Photography of the exterior is permitted. Interior photography is not applicable due to closure.
  • Behavior: Be mindful of the site’s contested and sensitive status.
  • Facilities: No facilities are available at the church itself. Numerous cafes, shops, restrooms, etc., are available in the surrounding Old Tbilisi tourist area.
  • Service Times: No regular religious services are held by either the Armenian Apostolic or Georgian Orthodox Church due to the ongoing dispute.

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