Mtsvane Monasteri

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Mtsvane Monasteri: The Green Monastery of Chitakhevi

Overview

Deep within the lush, forested Borjomi Gorge in Georgia’s Samtskhe-Javakheti region lies the Chitakhevi Monastery of St. George, far more famously known as Mtsvane Monasteri, or the “Green Monastery.” This evocative name stems partly from the greenish tint of some of the stones used in its construction and largely from its serene, secluded setting amidst dense woodlands along the banks of the Chitakhevi River. Founded during the early blossoming of Georgian monasticism, likely in the 9th or 10th century, the monastery complex we see today primarily features a three-nave basilica church and a distinct, slightly later bell tower.

While its origins lie in a period of cultural flourishing, Mtsvane Monasteri bears the scars of a darker chapter in Georgian history. Tradition holds that during the turbulent 16th century, likely amidst invasions by Ottoman or Persian forces (often linked to Shah Tahmasp I of Persia), the monastery was brutally attacked. The resident monks were massacred, and the sanctuary was desecrated and largely fell into ruin, remaining abandoned for centuries. This tragic event, memorializing the martyrdom of the monks, forms a central part of the monastery’s identity and spiritual significance today.

After centuries of neglect, lying dormant through periods of foreign rule and Soviet atheism, Mtsvane Monasteri experienced a revival in the early 21st century. Around 2002-2003, monastic life was re-established (as a male monastery), and restoration efforts began, bringing the ancient site back to life as an active place of worship and prayer. This rebirth coincided with increased attention to the narrative of the 16th-century massacre. Stones found in the nearby riverbed, some bearing reddish-brown hues, became venerated by pilgrims as being miraculously stained with the indelible blood of the martyred monks.

Today, Mtsvane Monasteri is not only an active monastery dedicated to St. George but also a popular destination for pilgrims and tourists alike. Drawn by its profound tranquility, the beauty of its natural surroundings, its ancient architecture, and the poignant history of martyrdom, visitors find a space imbued with deep spiritual resonance. The combination of its historical layers – from its early medieval founding to its tragic destruction and modern resurrection – makes Mtsvane Monasteri a compelling site reflecting Georgia’s enduring faith and resilience.

Basic Identification

• Full Name: Chitakhevi Monastery of St. George (ჩიტახევის წმინდა გიორგის მონასტერი – Chitakhevis Tsminda Giorgis Monasteri).
• Common Alternative Name: Mtsvane Monasteri (მწვანე მონასტერი – Green Monastery).
• Type: Georgian Orthodox Monastery (active, male).
• Location: Located in a narrow, forested gorge of the Chitakhevi River, near the village of Chitakhevi and approximately 9-10 km southwest of the town of Borjomi, in the Borjomi Municipality, Samtskhe-Javakheti region, Georgia. It is situated deep within the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park area. Altitude is roughly 900-1000 meters above sea level.

Historical Background

• Founding: The monastery is generally believed to date back to the 9th or 10th century AD. Tradition often associates its founding with Saints Christopher and Theodore, disciples of the prominent monastic figure St. Gregory of Khandzta.
• Key Dates & Events:

• 9th-10th Century: Establishment of the monastery and construction of the main church.
• 12th-13th Century: Likely period for the construction of the separate bell tower.
• 16th Century (circa 1550s): A devastating raid (attributed variously to Ottoman or Persian forces during invasions of Samtskhe) resulted in the massacre of the monks and the destruction and subsequent abandonment of the monastery.
• 17th-20th Centuries: The monastery remained in ruins and inactive.
• 2002-2003: Revival of the monastery, commencement of restoration work, and re-establishment of male monastic life.

• Historical Figures: Saints Christopher and Theodore (traditional founders), the monks martyred in the 16th-century raid (venerated collectively).
• Legends: The most prominent narrative associated with the monastery is the 16th-century massacre. The belief that certain stones in the nearby river bear the indelible bloodstains of these martyrs is a powerful element of local tradition and pilgrimage lore.

Significance and Purpose

• Religious Importance: An active Georgian Orthodox male monastery dedicated to St. George. It is a significant pilgrimage site, particularly revered due to the memory of the martyred monks. Many visitors come seeking spiritual solace and prayer, drawn by the site’s history of martyrdom and its perceived sanctity, including the “bloodstained” stones.
• Cultural Importance: Represents an important site of early Georgian monasticism and architecture. The narrative of its destruction and modern revival holds cultural significance as a symbol of Georgian resilience and the endurance of faith.
• Architectural Importance: The main church is a valuable example of a three-nave basilica from the early medieval period of Georgian architecture. The slightly later, separate bell tower is also noteworthy. The use of local stone, including some with a greenish hue, contributes to its character and popular name.
• Current Status: An active functioning male monastery and a popular destination for both religious pilgrims and tourists.

Architectural and Artistic Description

• Exterior: The main monastery church is a three-nave basilica, relatively simple in its external form, constructed from roughly hewn stone blocks, some exhibiting a distinct greenish color. It features a gabled roof. Exterior decoration is minimal compared to later Georgian churches. A separate, two-story bell tower stands nearby, constructed in a similar style with arched openings on the upper level, likely dating from the 12th or 13th century.
• Interior: The internal space is divided into a central nave and two side aisles by arcades (rows of arches). The eastern end terminates in a sanctuary apse. The interior ambiance is generally austere. Significant historical frescoes have not survived or were originally limited. An iconostasis separates the sanctuary from the nave.
• Artworks: The primary artistic value lies in the architecture itself (the basilica form and the bell tower). Surviving historical frescoes are scarce. Modern icons are used for worship within the active church. The stones in the river believed to be bloodstained are considered spiritually significant items by believers, though they are natural geological formations.
• Complex (for Monasteries): The monastic complex includes the main basilica church, the detached bell tower, and modern residential buildings (cells) constructed for the monks after the monastery’s revival in 2003. The complex is situated in a natural, forested setting, likely enclosed by a simple wall or fence.

Practical Visitor Information

• Opening Hours: Generally accessible to visitors during daylight hours (e.g., approximately 9:00/10:00 AM to 5:00/6:00 PM). As it is an active monastery, access might be temporarily limited during specific service times or periods reserved for the monks.
• Admission Fees: Entrance is typically free of charge. Donations towards the monastery’s maintenance are appreciated.
• Accessibility: The monastery is located down a road branching off the main Borjomi-Akhaltsikhe highway. The final stretch of the road can be unpaved and potentially rough. Reaching the monastery requires some walking, possibly on uneven ground within the complex. The church may have steps. Not easily accessible for individuals with significant mobility challenges.
• Rules and Etiquette:

• Dress Code: A strict dress code is enforced, consistent with Georgian Orthodox tradition. Women must wear skirts or dresses covering the knees and cover their heads with a scarf. Men must wear long trousers. Shoulders should be covered for everyone. Visitors are strongly advised to bring appropriate attire, as borrowing options may be limited or unavailable.
• Photography/Videography: Photography is usually permitted outdoors in the monastery grounds. Inside the church, photography may be restricted or forbidden, especially using flash. Always seek permission (a blessing) before photographing monks. Check for any posted signs regarding photography rules.
• Behavior: This is a functioning monastery and a site of martyrdom remembrance. Visitors must behave respectfully, maintain quiet, avoid loud conversations, and refrain from disrupting services or the monks’ routines.

• Facilities: Basic restroom facilities may be available. There might be a small stand selling candles or simple religious souvenirs. There are no cafes or extensive gift shops on the monastery grounds. More comprehensive facilities are available in the nearby town of Borjomi.
• Service Times: Daily monastic services are conducted according to the Orthodox tradition, but specific timings are usually internal to the monastic community and not widely publicized. Visitors arriving during service times may observe respectfully.