Jvaris Mama Church: St. John the Baptist’s Sanctuary in Old Tbilisi

About this activity

Jvaris Mama Church: St. John the Baptist’s Sanctuary in Old Tbilisi

Overview

Tucked away amidst the atmospheric streets of Old Tbilisi, near the prominent Sioni Cathedral, stands the Jvaris Mama Church, officially dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. Its common name, Jvaris Mama, translates roughly to “Father Cross,” a title steeped in local tradition and possibly linked historically to a venerated cross icon or relic once housed within, or perhaps simply its proximity to Sioni Cathedral, the traditional repository of Saint Nino’s Grapevine Cross. This active Georgian Orthodox church, though perhaps less imposing than some of Tbilisi’s larger temples, holds a deep historical significance and serves as a cherished place of worship in the heart of the ancient city.

The origins of a church on this site are traditionally pushed back to the very founding of Christian Tbilisi, with legend attributing the first structure here to King Vakhtang Gorgasali in the 5th century, supposedly built over a pagan temple. While archaeological proof of this early foundation is elusive, the tradition speaks to the long-standing sanctity of the location. The church visible today, however, primarily reflects later periods of construction and reconstruction, necessitated by the frequent invasions and destruction that mark Tbilisi’s history. The main structure largely dates to the 16th century, built during a period of relative revival, but it underwent significant rebuilding, particularly in the 18th century, after suffering damage during Persian invasions, likely including the devastating campaigns of Shah Abbas I.

Architecturally, Jvaris Mama is a representative example of a late medieval Tbilisi church, constructed mainly of the characteristic Georgian brick. Often described as a hall church or a modified three-nave basilica, its design provides an intimate setting for prayer and liturgy. A distinctive feature is the elegant bell tower built directly over the western entrance, added in the 19th century, which contributes significantly to its visual identity on the streetscape. Inside, the church retains frescoes from the 19th century, offering a glimpse into the artistic tastes and devotional practices of that era.

Today, Jvaris Mama continues its centuries-long role as an active parish church within the Georgian Orthodox Patriarchate. It draws worshippers and visitors alike, attracted by its historical resonance, its connection to Saint John the Baptist, its traditional name linking it to the Holy Cross, and its authentic atmosphere as a living sanctuary within the vibrant tapestry of Old Tbilisi.

Basic Identification

• Full Name: Church of Saint John the Baptist (Georgian: წმინდა იოანე ნათლისმცემლის სახელობის ეკლესია, Tsminda Ioane Natlistsmlemlis Sakhelobis Eklesia). Commonly known as Jvaris Mama Church (ჯვრის მამის ეკლესია).
• Type: Church (Georgian Orthodox).
• Location: Situated in the heart of Old Tbilisi (Kala district), Georgia, at the corner of Kote Abkhazi Street (formerly Leselidze St.) and Shavteli Street, very close to Sioni Cathedral.

Historical Background

• Founding: Tradition attributes the first church on this site to King Vakhtang Gorgasali in the 5th century. The current building mainly dates from the 16th century, with substantial reconstruction occurring in the 18th century after damage from invasions.
• Key Dates & Events:

• 5th Century: Traditional founding date.
• 16th Century: Construction of the main structure visible today.
• 17th Century: Damaged during Persian invasions (e.g., Shah Abbas I).
• 18th Century: Significant rebuilding.
• 19th Century: Addition of the bell tower over the entrance; interior painted with frescoes.
• Soviet Period: Closed for worship, potentially used for other purposes.
• Post-Soviet Period: Returned to the Georgian Orthodox Church and restored as an active parish church.

• Historical Figures: King Vakhtang Gorgasali (traditional founder). Patrons of the 16th and 18th-century reconstructions are generally not specified famous individuals in common sources but would have been local clergy or citizens.
• Legends: The primary legend concerns the 5th-century founding by Vakhtang Gorgasali. The origin of the name “Jvaris Mama” is rooted in tradition, potentially linked to a specific cross.

Significance and Purpose

• Religious Importance: An active and significant Georgian Orthodox parish church dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. Its common name, Jvaris Mama, also connects it symbolically to the Holy Cross. Houses venerated icons and serves its local congregation.
• Cultural Importance: Represents centuries of Orthodox Christian tradition in the heart of Tbilisi. Its architecture and history contribute to the rich cultural tapestry of the Old Town.
• Architectural Importance: An example of late medieval/early modern Tbilisi church architecture, primarily built of brick. Its modified hall church/basilica form and integrated 19th-century bell tower are notable features within the Old Tbilisi context.
• Current Status: An active Georgian Orthodox parish church.

Architectural and Artistic Description

• Exterior: The church is constructed mainly of Georgian brick. Its plan is often described as a modified three-nave basilica or an elongated hall church. The western facade is dominated by an integrated bell tower, built in the 19th century directly above the main entrance, featuring arched openings. The facades are relatively simple, typical of brick churches of the period in Tbilisi.
• Interior: The interior layout reflects its hall church/basilica form, leading to an eastern apse containing the sanctuary, which is separated from the nave by an iconostasis. The walls are decorated with 19th-century frescoes.
• Artworks: The church contains notable frescoes dating from the 19th century, depicting biblical scenes and saints. It also houses various venerated icons typical of an active Orthodox church. The integrated bell tower is a significant architectural feature.
• Complex: The site consists primarily of the church building with its integrated bell tower, occupying a corner plot within the dense urban fabric of Old Tbilisi.

Practical Visitor Information (Crucial for travelers)

• Opening Hours: As an active parish church, it is generally open daily, especially during daylight hours (e.g., roughly 9/10 AM to 6/7 PM). Access might be briefly limited during services like liturgy or baptisms.
• Admission Fees: Free. Donations are gratefully accepted for the church’s upkeep.
• Accessibility: Located at street level in Old Tbilisi, making it relatively easy to approach. However, access involves navigating cobblestone streets common in the area. There are steps leading into the church entrance. Not fully accessible for wheelchair users.
• Rules and Etiquette:

• Dress Code: Strict adherence to the Georgian Orthodox dress code is mandatory for entry: women must cover their heads (scarves often available), wear skirts/dresses extending below the knee (wraps often available), and cover shoulders. Men must wear long trousers (no shorts) and cover shoulders.
• Photography/Videography: Often restricted inside active churches, especially during services or with flash. Look for signs or respectfully ask permission from clergy or church attendants before taking photos.
• Behavior: Maintain a quiet and reverent demeanor. It is an active place of worship. Silence mobile phones and avoid loud conversations. Observe services respectfully from the designated areas if permitted.

• Facilities: No dedicated visitor facilities like restrooms or shops are typically part of the church itself. Numerous cafes, restaurants, shops, and public facilities are available in the immediate vicinity within Old Tbilisi.
• Service Times: Regular Orthodox services (Liturgy, vespers, matins, prayer services) are held. Schedules typically include morning liturgy on Sundays and feast days, and evening services on Saturdays and the eve of feasts. Specific times vary and are best confirmed by observing posted schedules at the church or inquiring locally.