The Barakoni Church of the Theotokos (Virgin Mary), a notable example of late medieval Georgian architecture, is dramatically located on a steep clifftop overlooking the confluence of the Rioni and Lukhuni rivers in the picturesque Racha region of western Georgia. Barakoni, which was commissioned when a large portion of Georgia was divided and under outside influence, is a monument to the tenacity of national artistic traditions and the support of influential local lords. One of the last significant examples of traditional Georgian domed church architecture before the significant changes brought about by the Russian annexation, it was constructed in the middle of the 18th century.
Rostom, the Eristavi (Duke) of Racha, a well-known local leader, gave the order to build the church. An inscription on the church provides important specific information that is frequently absent for older monuments, confirming its completion date of 1753 and naming the architect, Avtandil Shulavreli. The site’s long-standing holiness is demonstrated by the fact that the church is thought to have been constructed on the site of an earlier, possibly destroyed, religious building.
Barakoni’s architecture follows the traditional Georgian cross-dome (cross-in-square) plan, proving that this architectural style is still popular centuries after its “Golden Age” heyday. The church is praised for its harmonious proportions, graceful silhouette, conical dome atop a tall drum, and the depth of its external ornamentation. It was built from well-dressed stone blocks. Even though they might not have as much detail as some masterpieces from the 11th and 13th centuries, Barakoni’s stone carvings—especially those on the dome drum, windows, and portals—are intricate and expertly done in the distinctive 18th-century style.
Despite probably being closed for worship, the church managed to survive the Soviet era without being demolished. Though it has since been restored, it did sustain some damage during the 1991 Racha earthquake.
The Barakoni Church of the Theotokos is a beloved landmark in the Racha area and an active Georgian Orthodox church today. It is a significant cultural heritage site and a source of pride for the local community because of its exquisite late-medieval architecture, exquisite stone carving, well-known historical background (patron, architect, date), and breathtaking natural surroundings.
Fundamental Identification
- Full name: Barakoni Church of the Theotokos (ბარაკონის ღვთისმშობლის ეკლესია – Barakonis Ghvtismshoblis Eklesia).
- Common alternative name: Barakoni Church.
- Type: The Georgian Orthodox Church.
- Location: Ambrolauri Municipality, Racha-Lechkhumi, Kvemo Svaneti region, Georgia, close to the village of Tsesi. Perched atop a cliff with a view of the Rioni and Lukhuni rivers meeting.
Historical Context
- Founding: Commissioned by Rostom, Eristavi (Duke) of Racha. According to inscriptions, it was constructed in 1753 by architect Avtandil Shulavreli. Constructed where an older church once stood.
Important Dates and Occasions:
- 1753: Construction was finished.
- Late 18th and early 19th centuries: Served as a significant church in the Duchy of Racha before coming under Russian control.
- Soviet Era: Closed for religious services, it was probably spared from destruction because it was a cultural monument.
- 1991: Damaged in the Racha earthquake.
- After 1991: Restored and put back into active religious use.
Historical figures: Include Rostom (Eristavi of Racha), and architect Avtandil Shulavreli.
Legends: Although local customs may exist regarding the location, there aren’t any well-known legends that are frequently connected to the 18th-century church.
Significance and Objective
- Religious Significance: Honoring the Virgin Mary, also known as the Theotokos. An active Georgian Orthodox church in the Racha area that serves both locals and tourists.
- Cultural Significance: An important illustration of Georgian culture from the 18th century and late feudal patronage. A well-known landmark and Racha region emblem.
- Architectural Significance: An important and well-preserved illustration of the persistence of traditional forms in late Georgian medieval/early modern cross-dome church architecture. Notable for its exquisite 18th-century ornamentation, well-balanced design, fine stonework, and the infrequent inscription naming its architect.
- Present Situation: A protected cultural heritage monument and an operational Georgian Orthodox church.
Description of Architecture and Art
- Exterior: The church is a cross-in-square structure made of blocks of smooth-dressed sandstone, possibly embellished with stone of various colors. It has a tall, twelve-sided drum with a high conical dome on top. Typical of the 18th-century style, the facades are lavishly embellished with stone carvings, such as elaborate window and portal surrounds. The facades have large ornamental crosses. Intricate geometric and vegetal designs, especially on the cornices and dome drum. Overall, the effect is tasteful and proportionate.
- Interior: With four arms and a central area beneath the dome, the interior space is arranged according to the cross-dome design. The sanctuary is divided by an iconostasis and forms an eastern apse. Although there is little information on surviving historical murals, the interior walls may have been painted later or originally frescoed; contemporary icons most likely adorn the area.
- Artworks: The main pieces of art are the stone carvings from the 18th century that adorn the window/portal frames, dome drum, and external facades. These demonstrate the era’s ornamental style. It would also be important to preserve any original interior features that are still present, such as murals or iconostasis components.
- Complex: Mostly made up of the main church structure. It is enclosed, and a separate or integrated bell tower may be present; it may have been rebuilt or added later. It’s not usually said to have large, intricate monastic structures.
Useful Information for Visitors
- Hours of Operation: Being a busy church, it is probably open every day during the day (for example, 10:00 AM to 5:00 or 6:00 PM), particularly during the tourist season. During services or outside of peak hours, access may be more restricted.
- Admission Fees: Typically, admission is free. Donations are appreciated.
- Accessibility: Compared to extremely remote locations, it is reasonably accessible by car because it is close to the main road through Racha (for example, close to Ambrolauri). It’s probably a quick stroll from the parking lot or road to the church. There may be some uneven steps or ground on the actual site.
Guidelines and Protocols:
- Dress Code: Everyone must wear long pants and cover their shoulders. Women must wear headscarves and skirts below the knee. This is the standard Georgian Orthodox dress code.
- Photography and Videography: Outside, photography and videography are usually allowed. It may be forbidden to take pictures inside the church, especially with flash. Be mindful of worshippers and services, and always check the local regulations.
- Behavior: Act in a quiet, dignified manner appropriate for a busy house of worship. Enjoy the beautiful scenery in moderation.
- Facilities: Given its landmark status, basic amenities like restrooms may be close by and may be connected to the local tourism infrastructure. Nearby villages or towns like Ambrolauri would have shops and cafes.
- Service Times: Regular Orthodox services are probably held, especially on Sundays and significant feast days, such as the Dormition on August 28th (if that is the particular feast day linked to “Theotokos” in this context), or another Marian feast.
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