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A Fairytale Unfolds: Exploring the Enchanting Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater in Tbilisi

Tucked away in the labyrinthine streets of Tbilisi’s ancient Old Town, where history whispers from every cobblestone and the aroma of freshly baked bread mingles with the scent of blooming jasmine, lies a place where imagination takes center stage. It is here, amidst the timeless charm of Georgia’s capital, that one can discover the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater, a cultural gem that feels like stepping into a beloved storybook. This is more than just a theater; it is an intimate world crafted by the extraordinary vision of Rezo Gabriadze, a true polymath whose talents spanned writing, directing, painting, sculpting, and the delicate art of puppetry.

The theater, despite its modest size, holds a distinguished place among the world’s most notable cultural institutions. It offers a unique and enchanting escape, a testament to the power of storytelling through the timeless art of marionettes. To experience the Gabriadze Theater is to witness a master artist’s lifelong dedication to his craft, a dedication that has captivated audiences across the globe.

Finding this magical realm is as simple as seeking out 13 Shavteli Street in Tbilisi’s Old Town. However, in a charmingly whimsical gesture, Rezo Gabriadze, considering the number 13 unlucky, replaced the street sign with “12+1”. This small act reflects the personal and slightly eccentric touch that permeates the entire theater experience. Shavteli Street itself is a picturesque lane, often paved with cobblestones, contributing to the Old Town’s historical ambiance. The theater’s location is also significant, as it sits in close proximity to other notable landmarks such as the ancient Anchiskhati Basilica, a 6th-century temple. This proximity allows visitors to easily incorporate a visit to the theater into a broader exploration of Tbilisi’s rich cultural heritage. The deliberate alteration of the street number, a seemingly minor detail, speaks volumes about the personal investment and imaginative spirit that defines Rezo Gabriadze’s artistic endeavors, suggesting that even the theater’s address is imbued with a touch of his unique personality.

The story of the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater began in 1981, born from the creative spirit of the renowned Georgian director Rezo Gabriadze. After penning over 35 screenplays, Gabriadze felt constrained by the limitations imposed on intellectual freedom during the Soviet era. This frustration led him to explore puppetry as a new avenue for his dramatic storytelling. Above the theater’s entrance, an inscription in gold letters declares, “Extra Cepam Nihil Cogito Nos Lacrimare” – “Let our tears come only when cutting onions”. This motto encapsulates Gabriadze’s philosophy, hinting at the poignant yet often humorous nature of his theatrical narratives. From its inception, the theater has grown from a modest beginning to an internationally acclaimed institution. By 1989, it had already garnered international recognition, receiving a USSR state prize, which paved the way for extensive tours in foreign countries. This early and significant international success underscores the universal appeal and profound emotional impact of Gabriadze’s storytelling through the art of puppetry. His transition from the realm of mainstream cinema to the intimate world of marionettes was a conscious choice, driven by a desire for greater artistic autonomy. This suggests a deep-seated commitment to his singular vision and a willingness to explore unconventional paths to express his dramatic narratives.

The Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater boasts a diverse repertoire of shows, each bearing the distinct mark of its founder’s creative genius. Among the special performances staged at the theater are “Autumn of My Springtime,” “Stalingrad,” “Ramona,” and “Marshal de Fantini diamonds”. The very first marionette show created by Gabriadze, “Afred and Violetta,” inspired by Alexandre Dumas’ “La Dame aux Camelias,” remains a beloved and enduring part of the theater’s offerings. The theater’s repertoire encompasses a range of narratives, from deeply moving tales to thought-provoking explorations of the human condition. What makes these performances particularly special is that Rezo Gabriadze himself crafted the set decorations and the intricate marionettes, ensuring a cohesive and deeply personal artistic vision throughout each production.

Beyond the main theater, the iconic leaning clock tower, erected in 2010, presents its own miniature spectacle. Every hour, a charming golden angel emerges from the tower’s painted door to gently ring a bell with a small hammer. Twice a day, at 12:00 noon and 7:00 pm, the clock tower comes alive with a unique 15-minute doll show titled “Circle of Life”. This brief but poignant performance depicts the universal journey of a young couple who meet, fall in love, marry, have children, watch them grow, and eventually pass away, only to live on in the memories of their descendants. Despite its brevity, the “Circle of Life” show leaves a lasting impression on its audience, prompting reflection on the cyclical nature of existence. The fact that Gabriadze meticulously created every aspect of his productions, from the grand stage shows to the miniature clock tower performance, underscores the deeply personal and unified artistic vision that defines the theater. The clock tower show serves as a captivating and accessible introduction to Gabriadze’s artistry, drawing in passersby with its whimsical charm and offering a glimpse into the emotional depth that characterizes his work.

The Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater building itself possesses an individual and captivating architectural style, often described as fairytale-like. However, it is the whimsical leaning clock tower, added in 2010, that has become the theater’s most recognizable feature. Gabriadze envisioned the clock tower as a structure that would seamlessly integrate with the surrounding environment and evoke a sense of timelessness, drawing inspiration from the architectural aesthetics of the Byzantine era. In a unique touch that connects the tower to the city’s history, its construction incorporated river stones and bricks salvaged from abandoned houses in Tbilisi. Adding to its charm, a golden angel makes an hourly appearance to ring the bell. The base of the tower is adorned with two ceramic panels featuring hundreds of intricately hand-painted tiles, each a testament to Gabriadze’s artistic skill. The clock tower’s distinctive and surreal design, a departure from conventional architectural norms, has made it an instantly recognizable and cherished landmark in Tbilisi. Its unique character has even earned it a place on Atlas Obscura’s list of the world’s most extraordinary clock towers. The use of recycled materials in the clock tower’s construction not only contributes to its unique aesthetic but also forges a tangible link to Tbilisi’s past, reflecting an appreciation for the city’s heritage.

The Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater has firmly established itself as one of the most popular attractions in Tbilisi. The clock tower, in particular, plays a significant role in drawing both tourists and locals, many of whom visit specifically to witness the enchanting “Circle of Life” show. Indeed, the Gabriadze Theater often holds the distinction of being the first cultural highlight listed in tourist guidebooks for Tbilisi and is known for its high demand for tickets. The theater’s unique and interesting architecture further contributes to its popularity as a must-see sight, and the clock tower has become a well-known local landmark. This widespread appeal indicates that the theater’s allure extends beyond its performances; the building and its iconic clock tower are themselves significant points of interest. The difficulty in securing tickets suggests a high level of desirability and positions experiencing a performance at the Gabriadze Theater as a sought-after cultural event in Tbilisi.

For those planning a visit, the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater is located at 13 Shavteli Street (or 12+1). The theater itself is intimate, with a seating capacity of just 80. For the most current information regarding the show schedule and ticket availability, it is recommended to consult the official website at www.gabriadze.com or gabriadze.com. Additionally, the website TKT.GE (((https://tkt.ge/en/GabriadzeTheatre))) often lists the theater’s performances, including shows like “Alfred and Violetta,” “Marshal de Fantié’s Diamond,” “The Autumn Of My Springtime,” and “Ramona”. Performance durations can vary; for example, “Alfred and Violetta” typically runs for 75 minutes. It’s important to note that there may be age restrictions for certain performances, such as children under 12 not being admitted to some shows. Given the theater’s intimate setting, punctuality is highly valued, and latecomers may not be admitted once a performance has begun. Before the show, guests are welcome to relax at the “Ar Idardo” bar located in the theater lobby. The theater generally operates from 11 AM to 11 PM, and ticket prices typically range from 25 to 60 GEL. The limited seating capacity underscores the special and intimate nature of the theater experience, making advance booking highly advisable to avoid disappointment. The presence of the “Ar Idardo” bar further enhances the visitor experience, offering a space to unwind and soak in the artistic ambiance before or after a performance.

Rezo Gabriadze and his Marionette Theater have garnered significant awards and recognition on the world stage, solidifying their place in the annals of art and theater. Gabriadze himself was honored with the title of Commander of the Order of Arts and Letters of the French Republic, the highest cultural distinction awarded by France. His impressive list of accolades also includes the USSR State Prize, the Shota Rustaveli State Prize of Georgia, the Nika Award for his screenplay Passport, the Triumph Award, the Golden Mask, and the Golden Soffit Theatre Award. The theater, under Gabriadze’s direction, has also received widespread international acclaim for its productions, including Alfred and Violetta, The Autumn of our Springtime, Ramona, and The Battle of Stalingrad. The company has toured extensively, captivating audiences at prestigious international festivals and venues such as the Lincoln Center Festival in New York, the Edinburgh Festival, the San Sebastián Festival in Spain, the Toronto World Stage Festival, Theatre de la Ville in Paris, and the Barbican Centre in London. The Gabriadze Theater is recognized as being among the world’s preeminent cultural institutions, and Rezo Gabriadze is celebrated as a “Georgian national treasure” on a global scale. The multitude and prestige of the awards bestowed upon Gabriadze highlight his profound impact on the art world, elevating the status of his marionette theater to international prominence. The theater’s consistent presence at major international festivals further attests to its exceptional artistic quality and its ability to resonate with diverse audiences worldwide.

Notable Awards and Recognition of Rezo Gabriadze

In conclusion, the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater in Tbilisi stands as a testament to the enduring power of artistic vision and the captivating magic of puppetry. From its humble beginnings to its current status as a globally recognized cultural treasure, the theater embodies the unique spirit and multifaceted talent of its founder. Its intimate performances, the whimsical architecture of its building and clock tower, and the heartfelt stories it tells have woven an indelible thread into the cultural fabric of Tbilisi, making it an unforgettable destination for all who seek enchantment and artistic depth.