Metekhi Church of the Nativity

About this activity

Metekhi Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos

Overview

Perched dramatically atop the elevated Metekhi cliff, overlooking the Mtkvari River and offering iconic views of Tbilisi’s Old Town (Kala), the Metekhi Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos is one of the most historically significant and visually recognizable landmarks in the Georgian capital. Its commanding position has made it a silent witness to the city’s tumultuous history for centuries, serving variously as a royal residence site, a fortress, a notorious prison, and, primarily, a place of Christian worship.

While local tradition holds that the first church on this strategic site was erected by King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the legendary founder of Tbilisi, in the 5th century AD, the structure visible today dates primarily to the 13th century. Historical records indicate it was rebuilt by King Demetrius II Tavdadebuli (“the Self-Sacrificing”) between 1278 and 1289. Architecturally, it represents the classic Georgian cross-dome style, typical of the medieval period, constructed mainly of brick.

The history of Metekhi Church is inextricably linked with the defense and domination of Tbilisi. It was part of a larger royal complex that included a fortress and palace, often suffering damage during invasions, notably by the Mongols in 1235 and later by the Persians. It was repeatedly restored and rebuilt by Georgian kings. According to tradition, the cliff was also the site of martyrdom for St. Shushanik in the 5th century and St. Abo Tbileli in the 8th century, adding layers of religious significance.

Under Russian imperial rule, the surrounding fortress was dismantled, and the area transformed into a barracks complex, with the church itself suffering damage. Later, during the Soviet era, the church narrowly escaped demolition thanks to the efforts of Georgian intellectuals, led by the artist Dimitri Shevardnadze. For much of this period, the site housed the infamous Metekhi Prison, casting a dark shadow over its history. It was only in 1988, towards the end of the Soviet Union, that the church was returned to the Georgian Orthodox Church and reconsecrated.

Today, standing beside the imposing equestrian statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali, Metekhi Church serves as an active place of worship and a powerful symbol of Tbilisi’s resilience and Georgia’s enduring Orthodox faith. Its iconic location, layered history, and architectural form make it an essential site for understanding the spirit and past of the city.

Basic Identification

• Full Name: Metekhi Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos (მეტეხის ღვთისმშობლის შობის ტაძარი – Metekhis Ghvtismshoblis Shobis Tadzari). Also commonly known as Metekhi Church.
• Type: Georgian Orthodox Church.
• Location: Perched on the Metekhi cliff on the left bank of the Mtkvari River, overlooking the Old Tbilisi district (Kala). Located in the Avlabari district of Tbilisi, Georgia. Address: Metekhi Rise.

Historical Background

• Founding: Tradition attributes the first church and royal structures on the site to King Vakhtang Gorgasali (5th century). The current church building was constructed by King Demetrius II Tavdadebuli between 1278 and 1289.
• Key Dates & Events:

• 5th Century: Traditional founding by Vakhtang Gorgasali; traditional site of St. Shushanik’s martyrdom.
• 8th Century: Traditional site associated with St. Abo Tbileli’s martyrdom nearby.
• 1235: Church likely destroyed during the Mongol invasion.
• 1278-1289: Rebuilt by King Demetrius II.
• 15th-18th Centuries: Damaged and restored multiple times following invasions (e.g., Persians). Part of a royal fortress complex.
• Early 19th Century: Russian Empire takes control; fortress dismantled, area used for barracks.
• 19th-20th Centuries (until 1938): Site served as the infamous Metekhi Prison.
• 1930s: Church threatened with demolition but saved by public figures.
• Soviet Era: Used for various secular purposes (e.g., theatre workshops) after the prison closed.
• 1988: Returned to the Georgian Orthodox Church and restored for religious use.

• Historical Figures: King Vakhtang Gorgasali (traditional founder), St. Shushanik (associated martyr), St. Abo Tbileli (associated martyr), King Demetrius II Tavdadebuli (builder of the current church), Dimitri Shevardnadze (artist who protested planned demolition).
• Legends: The primary legend concerns Vakhtang Gorgasali establishing the site. Traditions also link the location strongly to the martyrdoms of St. Shushanik and St. Abo.

Significance and Purpose

• Religious Importance: Dedicated to the Nativity of the Theotokos (Virgin Mary). An active Georgian Orthodox church. Historically and traditionally linked to early Christian martyrs of Georgia.
• Cultural Importance: An iconic architectural and historical landmark of Tbilisi. Symbolizes the city’s long history, periods of foreign domination, resilience, and the revival of faith. Its image is frequently used to represent Tbilisi.
• Architectural Importance: A representative example of 13th-century Georgian cross-dome architecture. Its historical significance and prominent location outweigh unique architectural innovations compared to some other churches of the era. Built primarily of brick.
• Current Status: Active Georgian Orthodox church. A major tourist attraction and cultural heritage site.

Architectural and Artistic Description

• Exterior: The church follows a typical Georgian cross-dome plan (cross-in-square). Features a central dome raised on a relatively low drum, supported internally. Constructed primarily of brick, with some stone used in the foundations. The facades are relatively plain compared to heavily ornamented churches of the slightly earlier “Golden Age,” with decoration mainly consisting of brick patterns, window surrounds, and crosses embedded in the brickwork. The overall impression is one of solidity and strength, fitting its historical context as part of a fortress complex.
• Interior: The interior space conforms to the cross-dome layout, with four piers supporting the dome. An eastern apse forms the sanctuary. The interior walls likely held frescoes historically, but few, if any, original medieval frescoes survive due to the church’s turbulent history and periods of secular use (e.g., prison). Modern icons and an iconostasis furnish the active church.
• Artworks: Original medieval artworks (frescoes, significant carvings beyond basic architectural elements) are largely absent. The main “artwork” is the building itself within its historical and geographical context. Modern Orthodox icons adorn the interior.
• Complex: Historically, the church was part of a larger royal complex including a palace and fortress walls. These are now gone. Today, the church stands on the cliff-top platform, adjacent to the large equestrian statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali (erected 1967).

Practical Visitor Information

• Opening Hours: As an active church, it is generally open daily, typically from morning (around 9:00/10:00 AM) to evening (around 6:00/7:00 PM). Access might be restricted during services (Divine Liturgy, Vespers, etc.).
• Admission Fees: Free entry. Donations are welcomed.
• Accessibility: Located in central Tbilisi (Avlabari district), accessible by road/foot via Metekhi Rise. There are steps leading up to the church platform and likely steps into the church itself. May present challenges for visitors with significant mobility issues. The platform offers excellent views but requires navigating stairs or slopes.
• Rules and Etiquette:

• Dress Code: Standard Georgian Orthodox dress code is strictly required: women must wear skirts or dresses below the knee and cover their heads; men must wear long trousers. Shoulders must be covered for all. Scarves and wrap-around skirts are usually available to borrow at the entrance.
• Photography/Videography: Generally permitted outside. Inside the church, photography (especially with flash) is often restricted or forbidden. Always check for signs and respect the rules and worshippers.
• Behavior: Maintain quiet and respectful conduct. It is an active place of worship.

• Facilities: Restrooms may be available nearby but likely not within the church itself. Numerous cafes, restaurants, and shops are located in the surrounding Avlabari and Old Tbilisi areas. Tour guides can be hired in Tbilisi.
• Service Times: Regular Orthodox services are held. Visitors can attend respectfully, adhering to the dress code and behavioral expectations. Service times vary but are more frequent on weekends and feast days.