David Gareja Monastery Complex

About this activity

David Gareja Monastery Complex

Overview

The David Gareja Monastery Complex is a vast and extraordinary network of rock-hewn Georgian Orthodox monasteries and hermitages dramatically spread across the semi-arid slopes of Mount Gareja, straddling the border between Georgia and Azerbaijan. Founded in the 6th century by Saint David Garejeli, one of the revered Thirteen Assyrian Fathers, this unique complex evolved over centuries into one of Georgia’s most important spiritual, cultural, and artistic centers.

Saint David initially settled in a natural cave on the northern slope of the mountain, establishing what would become the heart of the complex – the Lavra of St. David. His disciples and subsequent generations of monks expanded the monastic community, carving hundreds of cells, churches, chapels, and refectories directly into the sandstone cliffs. The complex reached its zenith between the 11th and 13th centuries, Georgia’s Golden Age, enjoying royal patronage and flourishing as a center of theology, manuscript illumination, and remarkable fresco painting. The murals found within the various monasteries constitute a unique school of Georgian monumental art, depicting not only religious scenes but also invaluable portraits of historical figures, including Georgian monarchs like David the Builder and Queen Tamar.

The history of David Gareja is marked by periods of both flourishing and devastation. It suffered numerous invasions, most catastrophically by the Persian Shah Abbas I in 1615, when thousands of monks were reportedly martyred on Easter night, and countless treasures and manuscripts were destroyed. Despite periods of decline and near abandonment, particularly during the Soviet era when the area was used for military exercises, monastic life was revived in the main Lavra following Georgia’s independence.

Today, David Gareja stands as a powerful symbol of Georgian faith and cultural identity, attracting both pilgrims and tourists. However, its location on the border has led to an ongoing dispute between Georgia and Azerbaijan over the ownership of certain parts of the complex located on the southern slopes (including the monasteries of Udabno and Chichkhituri). This dispute critically affects access and the preservation of invaluable cultural heritage within those contested areas, making the complex a site of significant contemporary geopolitical sensitivity alongside its profound historical and spiritual importance.

Basic Identification

• Full Name: David Gareja Monastery Complex (Georgian: დავითგარეჯის სამონასტრო კომპლექსი). Also commonly known as David Gareji or simply Gareja. It comprises numerous individual monasteries, with the Lavra of St. David being the principal and currently active one.
• Type: Monastery Complex (Georgian Orthodox), featuring extensive rock-hewn architecture (cave monasteries).
• Location: Spread across the slopes and ridges of Mount Gareja in a remote semi-desert landscape, straddling the border between the Kakheti region of Georgia (Sagarejo Municipality) and the Agstafa District of Azerbaijan. The main Lavra is located on the northern slope, approximately 60-70 km southeast of Tbilisi.

Historical Background

• Founding: Established in the first half of the 6th century AD by Saint David Garejeli, one of the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers credited with strengthening Christianity in Georgia.
• Key Dates & Events:

• 6th Century: Foundation of the Lavra by St. David.
• 9th-13th Centuries: Major expansion and Golden Age; development of numerous monasteries (Dodo’s Rka, Natlismtsemeli, Udabno, Chichkhituri, Bertubani etc.), extensive fresco painting, royal patronage.
• 13th Century onwards: Suffered from Mongol invasions and subsequent periods of decline.
• 1615: Devastating raid by Shah Abbas I, massacre of monks, destruction of art and manuscripts.
• Soviet Era: Closure of monasteries, cessation of monastic life, military use of the area causing damage.
• Post-1991: Revival of monastic life in St. David’s Lavra; complex becomes major pilgrimage and tourist site; emergence of the border dispute with Azerbaijan concerning southern parts of the complex.

• Historical Figures: St. David Garejeli, St. Dodo Garejeli, St. Lukiane, St. Ilarion the Iberian, King David IV the Builder, Queen Tamar, Demetre I, Onophre Garejeli.
• Legends: Miracles attributed to St. David (healing tears, holy stone from Jerusalem), the martyrdom of the 6,000 monks on Easter 1616.

Significance and Purpose

• Religious Importance: One of Georgia’s holiest sites, founded by a major saint. A prominent pilgrimage destination housing the relics of St. David, Dodo, and Lukiane. A potent symbol of Georgian Orthodoxy and national resilience.
• Cultural Importance: A paramount center of Georgian medieval culture, learning, and art. The frescoes represent a unique and vital part of Georgian artistic heritage. Its status as national heritage is underscored by the ongoing border dispute.
• Architectural Importance: A remarkable and extensive example of cave monastery architecture, demonstrating adaptation to a harsh environment and sophisticated rock-cutting techniques over centuries.
• Current Status: The main Lavra of St. David is an active male monastery. Other parts of the complex range from preserved monuments to ruins. Access to significant parts on the southern slope (Udabno, Chichkhituri, Bertubani) is currently restricted due to the border dispute. The accessible Lavra area is a major cultural tourism destination.

Architectural and Artistic Description

• Exterior: The complex is characterized by hundreds of chambers carved into the rock face across multiple levels, linked by paths and rock-cut stairs. The main Lavra includes later, above-ground structures like defensive walls, a tower, and auxiliary buildings alongside the core cave structures. The dramatic, arid landscape is an integral part of the complex’s identity.
• Interior: Caves vary from simple, small cells for ascetic monks to larger, architecturally shaped churches with carved apses, iconostasis bases, and tombs. Refectories often feature long stone tables and benches carved from the rock.
• Artworks: David Gareja is world-famous for its extensive cycles of frescoes dating from the 8th to the 18th centuries (peaking 11th-13th). These murals, found in numerous churches and refectories across the complex (though many are now inaccessible), depict biblical narratives, saints, Church Fathers, and historically crucial portraits of Georgian royalty and donors. They represent a distinct “Gareja School” of Georgian monumental painting.
• Complex: Encompasses around 15-20 distinct monasteries spread over a wide area. Key sites include St. David’s Lavra (main complex), Udabno, Chichkhituri, Natlismtsemeli (John the Baptist), Dodo’s Rka, Bertubani, Kolagiri, and Tetri Senakebi. The main Lavra contains St. David’s original cave-cell, the Transfiguration Church (housing the founders’ tombs), a historic refectory with important paintings, monks’ cells, and defensive structures.

Practical Visitor Information

• Access Note: The main Lavra of St. David and areas on the northern slope are generally accessible to visitors. However, monasteries located on the southern slope of the ridge (including Udabno, Chichkhituri, Bertubani with their important frescoes) are currently inaccessible from the Georgian side due to the ongoing border dispute and control by Azerbaijani border authorities. Do not attempt to cross the ridge crest.
• Opening Hours: The accessible Lavra area is typically open daily during daylight hours, roughly 9:00/10:00 AM to 5:00/6:00 PM. Times may vary seasonally.
• Admission Fees: Generally, there is no official entrance fee to the main Lavra site. Donations to the monastery are appreciated. Parking might involve an informal fee.
• Accessibility: The final approach road can be rough. The site itself involves walking on uneven, rocky terrain, including slopes and rock-cut stairs. Visiting requires moderate physical fitness and is not suitable for individuals with significant mobility impairments or wheelchairs. Reaching upper caves involves steep climbs.
• Rules and Etiquette:

• Dress Code: Strict adherence to Orthodox dress code is required. Women: skirts/dresses below the knee (wraps often provided), covered head (scarves often provided), covered shoulders. Men: long trousers (no shorts), covered shoulders.
• Photography/Videography: Generally permitted outdoors. Inside churches or caves with frescoes, photography (especially with flash) may be forbidden or restricted. Always seek permission from monks if unsure, and never photograph monks without explicit consent. Be respectful during services.
• Behavior: Maintain quiet and respectful conduct appropriate for an active monastery. Do not disturb monks or liturgical services. Avoid shouting or loud noises. Stay on marked paths and do not climb on fragile structures or rocks. Heed warnings regarding the border and do not attempt to cross onto the southern slopes.

• Facilities: Basic restroom facilities are available near the main parking/entrance area. A small church shop may sell candles, icons, books, or monastery products. No cafes or extensive shops are on site; visitors should bring sufficient water (especially in summer) and any needed snacks. Limited informal guide services might be offered locally.
• Service Times: As an active monastery, regular services are held, particularly on Sundays and major feast days. These times vary, and access to certain church areas might be restricted for tourists during services.