Barakoni Church of the Theotokos

About this activity

Barakoni Church of the Theotokos

Overview

Dramatically situated on a steep clifftop overlooking the confluence of the Rioni and Lukhuni rivers in the scenic Racha region of western Georgia, the Barakoni Church of the Theotokos (Virgin Mary) is a significant monument of late medieval Georgian architecture. Commissioned during a period when much of Georgia was fragmented and facing external pressures, Barakoni stands as a testament to the endurance of national artistic traditions and the patronage of powerful regional lords. Built in the mid-18th century, it represents one of the last major examples of traditional Georgian domed church architecture before the profound changes brought by the Russian annexation.

The construction of the church was ordered by Rostom, the Eristavi (Duke) of Racha, a prominent local ruler. An inscription on the church confirms its completion date as 1753 and names the architect, Avtandil Shulavreli, providing valuable specific information often missing for older monuments. It is believed that the church was built on the site of an earlier, possibly ruined, religious structure, indicating the location’s long-standing sanctity.

Architecturally, Barakoni adheres to the classic Georgian cross-dome (cross-in-square) plan, demonstrating the persistence of this style centuries after its “Golden Age” peak. Constructed from neatly dressed stone blocks, the church is admired for its harmonious proportions, elegant silhouette topped by a conical dome on a tall drum, and the richness of its exterior ornamentation. While perhaps not possessing the same intricate detail as some 11th-13th century masterpieces, Barakoni’s stone carvings, particularly around the windows, portals, and on the dome drum, are elaborate and skillfully executed in the characteristic style of the 18th century.

The church survived the Soviet period, likely being closed for worship but escaping demolition. It did, however, suffer some damage during the severe Racha earthquake of 1991 but has since been restored.

Today, Barakoni Church of the Theotokos is an active Georgian Orthodox church and a cherished landmark of the Racha region. Its combination of elegant late-medieval architecture, masterful stone carving, precisely known historical context (patron, architect, date), and stunning natural setting makes it an important cultural heritage site and a point of pride for the local community.

Basic Identification

• Full Name: Barakoni Church of the Theotokos (ბარაკონის ღვთისმშობლის ეკლესია – Barakonis Ghvtismshoblis Eklesia).
• Common Alternative Name: Barakoni Church.
• Type: Georgian Orthodox Church.
• Location: Located near the village of Tsesi, Ambrolauri Municipality, Racha-Lechkhumi and Kvemo Svaneti region, Georgia. Situated on a clifftop overlooking the confluence of the Rioni and Lukhuni rivers.

Historical Background

• Founding: Commissioned by Rostom, Eristavi (Duke) of Racha. Built in 1753 by the architect Avtandil Shulavreli, as confirmed by inscriptions. Built on the site of an older church.
• Key Dates & Events:

• 1753: Construction completed.
• Late 18th – 19th Centuries: Functioned as an important church in the Duchy of Racha and later under Russian rule.
• Soviet Period: Closed for religious services, status as a cultural monument likely protected it from destruction.
• 1991: Suffered damage in the Racha earthquake.
• Post-1991: Restored and returned to active religious use.

• Historical Figures: Rostom, Eristavi of Racha (patron/commissioner), Avtandil Shulavreli (architect).
• Legends: No specific widely known legends are commonly associated with the 18th-century church, though local traditions related to the site might exist.

Significance and Purpose

• Religious Importance: Dedicated to the Theotokos (Virgin Mary). An active Georgian Orthodox church serving the local community and visitors in the Racha region.
• Cultural Importance: A significant example of late feudal patronage and 18th-century Georgian culture. A well-known landmark and symbol of the Racha region.
• Architectural Importance: A valuable and well-preserved example of late Georgian medieval/early modern cross-dome church architecture, demonstrating the continuity of traditional forms. Notable for its harmonious design, quality stonework, rich ornamentation characteristic of the 18th century, and the rare mention of its architect in an inscription.
• Current Status: Active Georgian Orthodox church and a protected cultural heritage monument.

Architectural and Artistic Description

• Exterior: The church is a cross-in-square design built of smoothly dressed sandstone blocks, with some ornamentation possibly using different colored stone. It features a high conical dome resting on a tall, twelve-sided drum. The facades are richly decorated with stone carvings, characteristic of the 18th-century style, including:

• Ornate window and portal surrounds.
• Large decorative crosses on the facades.
• Intricate vegetal and geometric patterns, particularly on the dome drum and cornices.
• The overall effect is elegant and well-proportioned.

• Interior: The interior space follows the cross-dome layout, with a central area under the dome and four arms. An eastern apse forms the sanctuary, separated by an iconostasis. The interior walls may have been frescoed originally or painted later, but information on surviving historical murals is limited; modern icons likely adorn the space.
• Artworks: The primary artworks are the 18th-century stone carvings decorating the exterior facades, dome drum, and window/portal frames. These showcase the decorative style of the period. Any surviving original interior elements (frescoes, iconostasis components) would also be significant.
• Complex: Primarily consists of the main church building. It stands within an enclosure, and there might be a separate or integrated bell tower, possibly added later or rebuilt. Not typically described as having extensive monastic complex buildings.

Practical Visitor Information

• Opening Hours: As an active church, likely open daily during daylight hours (e.g., 10:00 AM to 5:00 or 6:00 PM), especially in tourist season. Access might be more limited outside peak times or during services.
• Admission Fees: Usually free entry. Donations welcomed.
• Accessibility: Located near the main road through Racha (e.g., near Ambrolauri), making it relatively accessible by car compared to very remote sites. A short walk from the road/parking area to the church is likely involved. The site itself might have some uneven ground or steps.
• Rules and Etiquette:

• Dress Code: Standard Georgian Orthodox dress code is required: women must wear skirts below the knee and headscarves; men must wear long trousers; shoulders covered for all.
• Photography/Videography: Generally permitted outside. Inside the church, photography (especially flash) may be restricted. Always check for local rules and be respectful of worshippers and services.
• Behavior: Maintain quiet and respectful conduct suitable for an active place of worship. Appreciate the scenic views responsibly.

• Facilities: Basic facilities like restrooms might be available nearby, possibly associated with local tourism infrastructure given its landmark status. Shops and cafes would be found in nearby towns like Ambrolauri or villages.
• Service Times: Regular Orthodox services are likely held, particularly on Sundays and major feast days (including the Dormition – August 28th, if that’s the specific feast day associated with ‘Theotokos’ here, or another Marian feast).