Ananuri Fortress Complex

The Ananuri Fortress Complex, located approximately 70 kilometers north of Tbilisi on the historic Georgian Military Highway, is a striking reminder of Georgia’s turbulent and regal past. It is perched majestically overlooking the shimmering turquoise waters of the Zhinvali Reservoir. The stronghold and residence of the influential Dukes (Eristavi) of Aragvi, feudal lords who were instrumental in the history of the area, was this architectural ensemble, which was mainly constructed between the 16th and 18th centuries.

Historical Significance

The complex has been the scene of many historical conflicts and power struggles due to its strategic location at a key point commanding the main road connecting the northern highlands to the lowlands. The rise and fall of the Aragvi Eristavis is inextricably linked to its history. Although the duchy has existed since the 13th century, the most important building phases at Ananuri took place in the 17th century, ending with the construction of the large Church of the Assumption, the duchy’s most notable building, in 1689.

Ananuri saw many dramatic events and intense battles, such as the devastating siege in 1739 when Shanshe, Duke of Ksani, a rival feudal lord, attacked it. Historical accounts state that following a valiant defense, the fortress was set on fire, and the remaining defenders, including the Eristavi family, were killed. The main structures have fared remarkably well in spite of later damage, such as neglect and a fire during the early 19th-century Russian annexation. When the Zhinvali Dam and Hydroelectric Power Plant was built in the 1980s, the surrounding valley was submerged, but the beautiful reservoir backdrop that the fortress is now famously silhouetted against was created.

Current Status and Recognition

In addition to being a historical landmark, Ananuri is now a popular tourist destination and a site of active worship. It is one of Georgia’s most recognizable and often visited landmarks because of its combination of defensive architecture, religious significance represented in its elaborate churches, and stunning setting. Standing guard over the Aragvi River valley, it captures centuries of Georgian history, architectural development, and the resilient spirit of its people. Its exceptional universal value is highlighted by its inclusion on Georgia’s tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage status.

Fundamental Identification

• Full name: Ananuri Fortress Complex (Georgian: ანანურის ციხე). Ananuri Castle is another common name for it. The older Church of the Virgin (Mkurnali) and the Church of the Assumption (Ghvtismshobeli) are important churches within.
• Type: A complex of fortifications from the feudal era that includes churches, defensive walls, towers, and the remains of other buildings.
• Location: Close to the village of Ananuri, on the Georgian Military Highway, with a view of the Zhinvali Reservoir on the Aragvi River. Situated about 70 kilometers north of Tbilisi in the Dusheti Municipality of the Mtskheta-Mtianeti region of Georgia. It is approximately 900 meters above sea level.

Detailed Historical Context

• Founding: Although the main churches and fortifications on the site were built between the 16th and 18th centuries, the location was the seat of the Dukes of Aragvi as early as the 13th century. Duke Bardzem commissioned the massive Church of the Assumption, which was finished in 1689.

Important Dates and Occasions:

• 13th century: The Duchy of Aragvi was established.
• 16th and 17th centuries: Crucial for building churches and fortifications.
• 1689: The main Church of the Assumption was finished.
• 1739: The Aragvi ducal family and defenders are massacred during the siege and capture by Shanshe, Duke of Ksani. The fortress caught fire.
• Late 18th century: King Teimuraz II’s temporary home.
• Early 19th century: After Georgia was annexed, it was occupied by Russian forces and sustained additional damage.
• 1980s: The Zhinvali Dam, which created the reservoir next to the fortress, was built.

Historical figures: Include King Teimuraz II of Kakheti, Shanshe (Duke of Ksani), and the Dukes (Eristavi) of Aragvi, including Duke Bardzem.

Legends: One popular, albeit probably fictitious, story about great Georgian architecture is that the builder had his right hand severed so he could never again produce anything so exquisite. This story is more famously associated with Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, though it is occasionally connected to Ananuri.

Significance and Objective

• Religious Significance: A significant location for the Georgian Orthodox Church. The tombs of some Dukes of Aragvi and important frescoes, albeit damaged, can be found in the Church of the Assumption, an active house of worship.
• Cultural Significance: A significant historical and cultural landmark that symbolizes the late feudal era in Georgia. It is a potent symbol that is widely recognized in the country and appears on innumerable postcards and advertising materials. On the Georgia Military Highway, it is a well-liked destination.
• Architectural Significance: A remarkably intact illustration of Georgian defensive architecture from the late medieval era. The main church’s intricate facade decorations, especially the carved grapevine cross, make it a noteworthy example of the Georgian cross-dome style from this era.
• Present Situation: Serves as a historical monument accessible to the public as well as an active place of worship (inside the main church). The National Agency for Cultural Heritage Preservation of Georgia and the Georgian Orthodox Church work together to manage it.

Description of Architecture and Art

• Exterior: There are two primary fortified circuits within the complex. The tall, imposing square tower known as “Sheupovari” (Unbowed), which provides sweeping views, is part of the citadel, the upper fortification. The main churches are enclosed by the lower fortification. The defensive walls have multiple round towers and are crenelated. Stone is the main component. The Church of the Assumption’s south facade is well known for its elaborate stone carvings, which include a large cross covered in archangels, grapevines, and other complex designs that cover the facade and the dome’s drum.
• Interior: The Church of the Assumption features a central dome design. The fire in 1739 destroyed most of its original fresco decoration, but important pieces remain, particularly the western portion’s representations of the Last Judgment. There is an iconostasis and a canopy of carved stone (ciborium). Nearby is the smaller, older Church of the Virgin (Mkurnali or Healer), which is also domed and has a more straightforward interior.
• Artworks: The Church of the Assumption’s exterior stone carvings and its surviving frescoes are its most important works of art.
• Complex: In addition to the Sheupovari tower and the two main churches, the complex also consists of a smaller bell tower built into the fortifications, the remains of monastic cells or living quarters, a spring or water reservoir inside the walls, and other auxiliary buildings in varying degrees of preservation.

Useful Information for Visitors

• Opening Times: Throughout the year, the fortress grounds are usually open every day during the day. Although they may close during services, churches’ interiors are usually accessible from mid-morning (around 9:00 or 10:00) until late afternoon (around 17:00 or 18:00).
• Admission Charges: The grounds and churches of the Ananuri complex are typically free to enter. Donations are appreciated.
• Accessibility: The site may require climbing steep stairs inside the towers or fortifications, as well as walking on uneven stone surfaces. Visitors with severe mobility impairments find it difficult to access. There are steps at the main church entrance.

Guidelines and Protocols:

• Dress Code: When entering the churches, strict observance of Orthodox custom is required. Women are required to cover their heads (scarves are frequently available), wear dresses or skirts that fall below the knee (wrap-around skirts are frequently available at the entrance), and make sure their shoulders are covered. Men must cover their shoulders and wear long pants, not shorts.
• Photography and Videography: In general, photography and videography are allowed in the complex’s outdoor spaces. Photography (especially with flash) may be restricted or outright forbidden inside the active Church of the Assumption, especially during services. Ask for permission or keep an eye out for signs.
• Conduct: Guests should act with deference and keep to themselves, particularly in churches where services and prayer may be held.
• Facilities: There are typically basic restrooms close to the complex entrance (sometimes for a small fee). Just outside the main gate, along the highway, are a number of souvenir stands and vendors offering snacks, beverages, and handicrafts from the area. There are also small cafes in the area. There may be guided tours available, especially during the tourist season. These tours are typically given by guides who are on site or who are scheduled in advance and are offered in Georgian, Russian, and English.
• Service Times: Because the church is active, liturgies are held, mostly on Sundays and significant Orthodox holidays. If you want to go, it’s best to check the exact times locally as they can change.